Military Holidays are a big deal in Jonesville Michigan. Veterans Day 2011 marked the rededication of the G.A.R. (Grand Army of the Republic) Memorial in Carl Fast Park. Over 600 people were in attendance from this village of 2,400.  The G.A.R. Statue was erected in 1912 and honored soldiers from the American Civil War. The Jonesville American Legion funded a project to reposition the statue on a new stone base and flank it with a new American Flag display. The rededication was attended by local students, village residents, and guests of the Munro House B&B. The Munro House gave away all its rooms for free to Veterans and current Active Duty Military personnel as a “thank you” for their service. The international B&Bs for Vets program was very well-received at this Michigan B&B.

The first 25 pictures in the slideshow are Lori and I getting ready for the evening. The remaining 175+ photos are as many pictures of Halloween costume ideas I could take before the flash on my camera used up all of my battery. Included are a cowboy riding a live donkey and my favorites: the nerd, the hippie, the red coat, and the Yoopers.

Slideshow chronicles Business Meeting, Networking, Better Way to Stay Campaign,  Food Photography, Harbor View

So far Julia, Aunt Shirley, and Uncle LeRoy have been very cooperative. Julia has identified people in photographs, LeRoy provided accurate birth dates, and Sally is fun to talk to, she must have been a character in real life. They are doing this to find information and to have fun. The information they received was later corroborated by further research of family records and contact from relatives who are still alive.

This is what I learned:  There is the possibility that Michigan municipalities will fail in the near future, much like many individuals are going bankrupt. To prevent this from happening, the governor has instituted a plan of action for what to do in this situation. There are 2 levels of financial problems where the state will act (1) stress and (2) emergency.

(1) Stress to local government and schools happens when any of a dozen things occur including delinquency to creditors, failure to make deposits to pension funds, failure to pay wages, failure to file an annual financial support, and bond default. These are red flags that need to be addresses immediately with the help of a state appointed indvidual or company.

If left unaddressed, these stess situations could threaten the future capability to provide necessary government services essential to public health, safety, and welfare. The team is either requested by the stressed entity for aid, or is analyzed by the state treasurer as being in need of support. The team then works with the local unit of government to resolve the problem quickly.

Continued stress leads to a state of (2) emergency that must be handled quickly and efficiently to prevent a downward spiral towards bankruptcy. Enumerated are 6 specific conditions that constitute an emergency. To rectify debt, the state appointed people may reject, modify, or terminate specific terms of an existing contract after conferring with the bargaining representatve. Prompt resolutions that are reasonable and necessary must be obtained to deal with an economic problem. If an agreement is not settled quickly through the bargaining rep, the state will make all the changes it deems reasonable and necessary to achieve recovery of financial emergency for a local school or municipality.

Some steps that may be taken include elimination of specific terms of a contract, reorganization of school districts, and prosecution of officials accused of criminal conduct.

It is a proactive plan for the inevitable insolvency of a local government somewhere in Michigan.

Unfortunately, a lot of public officials have little, if any, financial background–they get elected because they are popular, especially in small towns or in Detroit. That’s fine until a crisis arises and it becomes evident that they are in over their head when dealing with finances. That’s when the governor will send in someone, or some company, to prevent a crisis that could be averted. The bill says nothing about the appointments being permanent. They are only there to help. This bill provides experience, assistance, and relief in a small window of time and is a much needed plan of action for any responsible organization.

Congratulations to Governor Rick Snyder for addressing this issue before it becomes a problem.

We had about 6 hours to spare, so we had our final meal at a Korean restaurant at the airport. We both chose to have bibim bap. The little black cauldron filled with meat, rice, and veggies came steaming to our table. Its contents were deftly pinched by our dextrous fingers wielding chopsticks for the final time. We had a delicious side order of seaweed soup and a tall thin 8 ounce can of Coca Cola. It was all very satisfying–especially the ability to use the chopsticks.

Our experience here was wonderful. We found the people to be polite and the food to be excellent. Mass transit was very modern and easy to use. There was a lot to see and do despite it being the middle of winter. Communication was the biggest obstacle, but we made it through every situation without a hitch.

Our son loves it here. He has a good job with good pay and good benefits. The internet keeps him connected with family and friends in the States. He knows many other teachers who are sharing his experience in different schools throughout this foreign land. He would like to continue to teach here or he could move on to teach in another country if the opportunity arises. Only time will tell.

We had a bit of trepidation over our travel plans because it was snowing back in Michigan. The entire Midwest was in a state of emergency as we read reports of O’Hare Airport in Chicago recording the most single day snowfall in history. My biggest fear was having our flight cancelled because the Detroit Airport was closed. My second biggest fear was having to dig my truck out of a 10 foot snow drift with my bare hands. Neither of these things happened as our flight was smooth and actually arrived early, and our truck pulled right out of its outdoor parking slot without an issue.

The 90 minute drive home from the airport was uneventful. It was good to be away on vacation, but it was better to be home. Our house and our guests were well cared for during our absence and many future reservations were taken to keep us busy over the next 6 weeks. We will visit Chris again, wherever he may be, and we will take on the adventure with the spirit we so enjoy.

But first, a brief recent history of Korea: The Joseon Dynasty ended Korean Monarchy in the early 20th century. The last king of Korea died without an heir while the Japanese overtook and occupied the country. Korea was under Japanese control until the end of World War II. Basically, Korea was 2 uneducated states not knowing how to rule themselves when they gained their independence. North Korea was influenced by the Communist Russians and Chinese, South Korea was influenced by the Capitalist Axis Powers. Both states co-existed for about 5 years when the North invaded the South trying to force them into Communism. This started the Korean War that lasted for three years with Super Powers supporting both sides. The war never really ended: an armistice was declared and the 2 states were separated into North and South by a line that roughly follows the 38th parallel. A fenced-in de-militarized zone running 2 kilometers in each direction from the line was declared a “no man’s land” separating the countries whose borders are heavily guarded on each side. The people of both countries hope for reunification, but the Monarchy of the North refuses to relinquish their power.

The DMZ has become a tourist attraction for people traveling in South Korea. It is an educational tour that teaches about this country’s history, the horrors of war, and the dream of reunification.  There are many areas where cameras are not allowed so photos of the more interesting stops are unavailable.

Our group of about 20 English speaking people from around the world were picked up at various locations around Seoul and hosted by a Korean woman named Angel. Our first stop was at the Freedom Bridge where thousands of POWs (Prisoners of War) from the Korean War were exchanged and brought home. A rusted steam locomotive riddled with bullet holes was salvaged from the waters of the DMZ and put on display as a relic and reminder of the war. There are countless ribbons attached to the fence surrounding the area containing messages of peace for the near future.  We moved on to a gallery where a film of the war was shown.

We continued on to tour the “third tunnel”. During the 1970′s, 80′s, and 90′s, four tunnels were discovered. They apparently were infiltration tunnels that could allow tens of thousands of North Koreans to invade the South in just an hour. The tunnels were discovered by accident, and only the third tunnel is open for public tours. The tour begins with a surrender of recording devices, the wearing of hard hats, and a half mile walk down an 11 degree sloped tunnel. This leads to the actual tunnel that the North Koreans had dug for the invasion. I had to stoop throughout the additional half mile walk to near the 38th parallel. The air here is in short supply and the constant stooping makes it a bit of an uncomfortable journey. After a quick look around, the trek through the low ceiling cave began and finished with a half mile hike back up the 11 degree incline.

The next stop was the Dora Observatory. This is an area where some civilization in North Korea can be seen with the naked eye. Photography from here is limited to be taken from behind a line that is just far enough behind the lookout wall to make photos poor at best. We were surprised to learn that electricity is in such short supply in the North, that a factory needs to be powered from the South.

We moved on to a train station at Dorasan that is hardly ever used. The South Koreans have constructed a modern facility that they hope will one day be the gateway into North Korea. One day, when the countries are reunited, some of the infrastructure that will allow for a smooth reunification will already be in place in the South. After 60 years of Communism versus Capitalism, the two countries are as different in technology as Silicon Valley and the Amish.  It is said that about 2,000 Northerners defect to the South via water routes every year. Because of their inferior education, qualified jobs are unavailable and many resort to a life of thievery or prostitution.

The ride home was made very interesting by an in-depth conversation with Angel, our host. She gave us great insight and understanding of the Korean culture. She was very candid with her responses to personal, political, and economic questions. It is time spent with people like Angel that makes foreign travel such a delight.

We finished the night with a shrimp burger and cheese fries from the local Lotteria. Getting wasted on soju during the Korean New Year on the night before our flight home did not seem like a very good idea, so we watched some NCIS at the hotel and prayed that the snow would stop to allow us to travel safely on our way home during one of the biggest snow storms ever to hit the USA. I also don’t want to miss the Super Bowl. Go Pack GO!

Paju G&G = Good and Great

The area is about 30 feet below street level, averages about 100 feet wide, and runs about 3 miles. There are walking paths and vegetation on both sides of the stream, many crossing areas, and man-made rapids to create the sound of rushing water. These features combine to create an escape from the big city. The traffic above must still flow, so there are 22 unique bridges crossing Chongyecheon.  It is difficult to hear the city traffic above the river walk.

We encountered hundreds of people walking along the brick walkways along the banks. The majority of walkers appeared to be businessmen taking a break from work to enjoy nature and get some excercise. We noticed that there were no food venders or picnic areas along the trail. This probably was part of the design to keep the area clean and free from litter.

One area of the embanked walls was covered by a re-creation of what is believed to be the oldest depiction of a royal Korean procession. It includes drawings of over 2,000 figures of people and horses. The long walk in the fresh air created quite an appetite in both of us.

We made our way to another series of outdoor and underground markets with only one thing in mind–street food. We walked past many booths that were selling food we could not recognize, those that we did recognize were unappealing–octopus is freaky. 

Finally we happened upon a lady who was grilling up some sort of egg dish and frying bread. on a small grill. It was big enough to create just 3 sandwiches at a time, and she had a constant line of people waiting to taste her goodies. The pre-prepared egg batter contained onions, garlic, and other vegetables that were fried in a thin layer of oil on her grill top. Our freshly prepared sandwich took about 5 minutes to cook and was served folded and inserted into a paper cup. It was delicious and cost about $1.50.

We continued on to find a whole section of open air restaurants that were creating what appeared to be circles of  fresh corn polenta. It was combined with many vegetables and fried in a thin layer of oil over a large grill top. It was about the size of a small pizza. Heated foil-covered benches surrounded the cooking area so patrons could sit and eat in relative comfort during the winter. Our corn disc was ready as soon as we sat down and served with kimchi plus soy sauce and onions. We ate it with the first wooden chopsticks we have seen since arriving in South Korea. They are much easier to use than the metal ones we find everywhere else. Lunch was great and cost just $4.

Lori began to feel the symptoms of illness that I had earlier in the week, so we decided to call it a day. We made our way back home to Incheon and she napped while I watched movies on television. They show a lot of American movies with original dialogue and Korean subtitles. There are always three movies playing plus what seems like an endless loop of America’s Funniest Home Videos–and they never show the host or the audience, just video after video with commentary by Tom Bergeron.

Lori awoke from her nap and we went out for Korean Barbeque. I am much better at metal chopsticks than I was a week ago, and the hostess did not have to give me any assistance this time. We enjoyed the meal and topped it off with muffins and cookies. Everything was tasty–as usual.

Tomorrow is our final full day in South Korea and features our tour of the DMZ. We will be getting up early to join the masses during rush hour to get to our 8:00 a.m. appointment.

McDonald's Delivers in Downtown Seoul

Korean BBQ

We rode the train to Chris’ transfer station, said our goodbyes, and continued on to downtown Seoul. Chris had treated us to breakfast earlier and we were hungry for some lunch. We had our choice between McDonald’s and Lotteria. We know the former so chose the latter–it is a foreign version of Mickey D’s with similar items at reduced cost–and they sit side by side and share the same building. Both were packed to capacity with 5 lines 6 deep. There was no English translation of any of their sandwich items on the billboard menu, so I took a picture of what I wanted, showed my camera screen to the cashier, and got exactly what I wanted–it was a combo meal with what looked like a Whopper for me and a ”Lady Burger” for Lori, plus cheese sticks, French fries, 2 Cokes, and corn salad. It was all quite good. Both sandwiches had a brown onion sauce in addition to typical US deluxe burgers. Our combo meal also got us a Van Gogh cosmetic case for about $13. There were even 2 attendants near the exit to take our trays and dispose of the garbage for us.

Lori wanted coffee, but the combo meal offered no substitutions. We had to continue on to a coffee shop where Lori was able to obtain a caffeine fix. The place was so busy that she paid and was given a beeper that would signal her when her drink was prepared. A few minutes went by and we had her special coffee. The Koreans have some sort of obsession with coffee as it is available just about everywhere. Starbucks and Dunkin Donuts are typical along with local chains, individual coffee shops, and vending machines on virtually every block. 

This day was about 20 degrees warmer than yesterday, so we decided to go back to Namdaemun Market in search of a Louis Vuitton (LV) handbag for Lori. The market claims to have over 10,000 stores. This is quite accurate because most of the “stores” are about 8 feet wide, are set up outside, and are packed with stuff. The vast majority of goods outside are clothing while inside venders sell and make jewelry, carpeting, knick knacks,etc. At night, many of the “stores” are covered with a tarp, cinched with a strap, and left outside, while some are packed up and hauled away to a remote location.

The market was designed before automobiles were prevalent, so the streets are narrow and inaccessible by cars and trucks. Deliveries are made by motorcycle or hand truck. Motorcycle delivery is common everywhere in Seoul. We have seen drivers hauling everything from a few small crates, to a stack of crates, to a pile of carpet rolls. Delivery trucks would just add to the congestion of his busy city, so motor bikes are very efficient–even in the winter time. Many of the handlebars are equipped with heated gloves, gps units, and scanning equipment. The drivers inch their way through the crowds without sounding their horns. There is nowhere to park at the market. Shoppers get here via subway, bus, or on foot. They claim to greet half a million shoppers a day. This would not surprise me as there were people everywhere with over 10,000 of them being salesmen.

Lori did not have good luck finding an LV bag yesterday, so she approached the owner of the first handbag store she found to find out where the LV bags were. He brought her inside, gave her a seat and showed her a catalog of handbags. She picked the one she liked and the guy had her wait while he disappeared to get the bag. He was gone about 15 minutes when he returned with exactly what Lori wanted. They agreed on a price and Lori left, a very happy woman.

As we strolled the market, we found more stores selling LV bags, but none were quite as nice as the one she bought. We saw LV scarves, socks, and belts–but no hats. A red LV hat would have completed her ensemble, but that will have to wait for another day.

For the first time since we’ve been here, snow began to fall. All of the venders extended their awnings to protect their goods from moisture. Flurries fell for about an hour with no real accumulation, just enough to make the stone streets slippery. We made our way indoors and were amazed at the jewelry stores. Men and women occupied their own 8′ space that was jam-packed with earrings, bracelets, necklaces, and other sparkly things. As they waited for customers to sell stuff to, they made more jewelry utilizing glue guns, needle nose pliers, and magnifying glasses. I watched one girl fill individual clear plastic bags with necklaces, count 12 lots, then place them in a larger plastic bag–apparently to sell at a remote location or overseas. The atmosphere was bright and crowded, yet friendly–it was not a sweat shop. I was amazed by the quality and quantity of hand-made costume jewelry in one location. 

Upon leaving Namdaemun Market, we headed back to the train station and were attracted to an area of activity in the underground walkway. We made our way to a place called Shinsegae Market–WOW! What a market! This was a high-end indoor market just blocks away from the open market. It has the footprint of a city block but is 14 levels high! I thought I had seen a lot of employees at the E-Mart yesterday. This place seemed to have 1 employee for every 2 shoppers–and that’s a close estimation. For all of the knock-off brands and factory seconds that were sold on the street, the good stuff was at Shinsegae.

We continued on to another place called Lotte Mart–it is another mid to high level grocery store. We had to laugh when we saw how they were bagging their groceries. Apparently, all of the cases that are emptied to refill the shelves are saved and brought to the front of the store. Customers then select an appropriate size box, fill it with groceries, seal it with strapping tape, then finish it off with a bow-tied ribbon. People are leaving the store with stacks of boxes.

There are whirling barber poles everywhere, but you don’t get your hair cut there–Chris found out the hard way. He went in to get his hair cut and the attendant started to undress him. He said “No, I want a haircut”. They said “we don’t do that here”. Apparently, the barber poles signify massage, but many go further than just a back rub. It depends on whether there is also a heart, or a star, or oriental characters among the twirling ribbons that are so familiar at barbershops in America.

We made it back to our hotel as the temperature almost reached 32 degrees for the first time since we got here. We were too tired to go out for dinner, so we decided to have pizza again. This time it was a Korean favorite–bulgogi pizza. Bulgogi pizza has marinated beef plus cheese and normal vegetables. Any American would enjoy this blend of familiar tastes.

Lori and I travel very well together. We like to do the same kinds of things and humor each other when we don’t. We are patient and adventurous and have pretty good instincts for navigation and things to see and do. Today, we found Louis in many shapes, colors, and textures at very good prices–so it was a very good shopping day.

We have made reservations to tour the DMZ on Wednesday. Check back for the day 9 story of what I hope will be the highlight of our trip.

The cosmetics area at Shisegae Market in Seoul

A display of shoes stacked outside near Numdaemun Market

Browsing the knick-knacks indoors at Numdaemun Market

View from above at Shinsegae Market